Lake Magadi and Shompole

Lake Magadi is a soda lake which is utilised by the Lake Magadi Soda Company which extracts the soda and makes detergent. It is about a two hour drive from Nairobi down an extremely good and empty road.

The soda lake is very beautiful especially as it is a haven for flamingos. The town in Magadi is not really worth the trip as it is just an industrial village with everything focused on the workers of the company. You can get the very basics in the shop there including fizzy drinks, but not beer.

It is when you head away from the village that everything becomes amazing. There is a causeway across the lake and to either side of you everything is dazzling white with tinges of pink. I've seen websites and booklets that suggest hiking around magadi. Don't even consider it! It may be safe, I don't know, but there is no way that you could carry sufficient water supplies. Magadi is the hottest place I have ever been.

However, I would definately reccomend a trip to Magadi, just go in a car and plan to get very hot and very dusty.

There are two magical spots near Magadi to camp. For both of these places head out over the causeway first, then decide where you want to go.

There is a spot of the top of a hill overlooking Magadi which is brilliant for an evening's camping. You don't need a tent as it is too hot to even think about putting one up. The last time I was there it was boiling hot until about 11 o'clock in the evening. From here you can look out over the lake and it really is beautiful.

To get there, go over the causeway and head left whenever you can. You will need a 4x4 for definate, as you begin to climb a steep rocky hill and then drop down the other side.

Pack up really early in the morning as it will very soon get too hot to do anything.

The other spot, which is better if you are going to spend more than just an evening here is actually really in Shompole. This is another ranch near the lake. Go across the causeway and go straight on. The roads are really tricky to spot here but there is a road near the river and another one further to your right after crossing the river. You want the river road. Now we found this campsite just by luck, but have since found it again. You want to go along the river and try to stick to it as much as possible. Keep trying every track that might lead to the river (even if it's not much of a track). Eventually you may stumble on the campsite. It is under an archway of trees and the other side there is a big flat place beside the river where you can easily camp. Don't come here in a draught as you will be continually surrounded by Masai and their cows and goats.

We spent our entire day sitting in the river when I was last there and it was much the best thing to be doing.

Make sure that you pay to go into any ranch that they ask you to as otherwise there is a possiblity that they might come and find you and demand more payment. So get receipts at the gate. There is Shompole and another ranch but I've forgotten the name. You go through the other one to get to Shompole. You should make it clear that you are only passing through and pay to camp in Shompole.

If sitting in rivers isn't your thing, but air-conditioned luxury is, then there is Shompole lodge. This is luxury of the highest order and well worth a trip if you can afford it. Shompole is run for the benefit of the local Masai who get a share of the profits.

Muthaiga Country Club

Muthaiga Country Club really is the lap of luxury and comfort. Not in a fluffy towels and spa kind of way, but in a comfortable, friendly, jovial way. MCC is a little bit of Britain as it was 50 plus years ago.

Yes you have to be a member, or be the guest of a member to go there. So find yourself some proper friends. Or, if you happen to be an officer in the Queen's army and you find yourself in Kenya, then you get temporary membership. Use it.

Muthaiga Country Club, is, funnily enough, in Muthaiga. It features in the film 'out of Africa' as Karen Blixen was the only woman ever allowed into the men's bar. The men's bar is still there, though I'm sure it's very dull.

My very favouritest thing to do on a friday evening was to bully my friend into playing tennis with me at the club, then going swimming, having a cocktail at the pool bar, changing for dinner, then drinks with friends, then a huge meal with plenty wine, then off to the Black Cotton night club. At this point I feel I should let you into the secret of why I loved Muthaiga, you see, I'm a Scot, and it shows. You cannot pay at the club with cash, everything goes on your bill. Or, if you are a guest, it goes on someone else's bill! Bring on the wine!

The bar stays open really very late, which is great. You do have to change to have dinner, no jeans, jackets for the boys, that sort of thing but really it just makes it more fun.

The restaurant is even better than everything else. The steak is brilliant. The only problem is that there is no chocolate pudding except black forest gateau which doesn't count.

So that's about all about Muthaiga.

Haandi

Haandi and Haveli are restaurants run by the same people. They are Indian restaurants and my are they good. Haveli is probably the main restaurant, it's in Westlands in the Mall on the Mezzanine floor. There is secure parking there, though it's a very tight squeeze in a multi-story. I've never been to India but as far as I'm concerned this is the best Indian food ever. Haveli is very hany if you are picking people up, or dropping them off at the airport. It's on the Mombasa road next to the big Nakumat (could be Uchumi I can't remember) in the 'Capital Centre'. Haveli has a strange atmosphere as it is an enormous place but again the food is amazing. Really really really go there.